The Final Chapter

As I packed my bags another storm blew over Acumcum. I was sad to be leaving without experiencing the wet season. Small patches of green grass had started to grow and the pigs had returned to the compound pigsty with 10 little ones in tow. I was told it is a sign that the rains are on the way! I am sure South Sudan is a completely different place to experience in the wet. Driving through Acumcum village and Wau town for the last time was surreal. When I first arrived I found the place harsh and difficult to adjust to, but after three months I had slowly gotten used to daily life and started to build some good relationships with colleagues and other international workers. I suppose that is life in general - people and experiences coming in and out.

 

I spent one night in Juba and was surprised to find the place more multicultural than when I first arrived, with many faces from Ethiopia and Eritrea and expats driving around in UN vehicles. There was a large amount of fresh fruit and vegetables for sale at the markets and being closer to Uganda allows for a variety of goods to be imported. I relaxed at a hotel on the river Nile and enjoyed a cold smirnoff while watching the boats pass by.

 

Arriving at my five star hotel in Addis Ababa I was gobsmacked. I had not had running water, electricity or a variety of food for three months. To sleep in a king sized bed and have a hot shower was amazing! Addis is an interesting city. I went on a private city tour and experienced the big marke, traditional dinner and dancing. My guide was lovely and helped me run around town to find an ATM that was working!

 

I have spent the last three days in the ancient town of Lalibela. It is famous for its underground rock churches. The Ethiopian Orthodox religion is very much part of daily life and it was fascinating to visit the churches and witness locals coming to pray and fast. I met some lovely girls from the UK who are working in Africa so spent a couple of days touring with them. On my last day in Lalibela I decided to make the trek to a monestary in the mountains. I took a mule but the mountain was so steep and rocky at times that I fell off the mule and fell over twice. It was a scary experience but the view from the top was incredible. Ethiopia is an unusual place, very unique to the rest of Africa. It is rich in culture, religion and culinary experiences. It is safe and a place that I would recommend to travel. 

 

Getting ready to fly out I have mixed feelings. I am looking forward to arriving home to my family, friends, wonderful food, ease of life and comfort, but I am also feeling sad to be leaving the adventure and isolation that is Wau, South Sudan. Despite the  heat, challenges and frustrations I think that the country, people and culture of South Sudan has gotten under my skin and I will be back one day.

 

 

Weekend in Wau

As my last days in South Sudan have crept up on me I decided to spend the weekend in Wau. A number of colleagues had training in Wau so were also staying at a hotel. I spent a lazy Saturday by the pool at the Wau River Lodge and had the best meal I have had since being in South Sudan  for dinner - roasted lamb and chips! Although there are sheep around, it is not common to find it on the menu.

 

On Sunday morning I was meant to be taken on a tour of the largest Catholic Cathedral in Wau but the Father's motorcycle broke down! It was a hot and windy day and in the afternoon a dust storm followed by rain storm hit Wau. It was incredible to watch the red dust being blown everywhere, followed by torrential down pour. As I have not seen any rain since I arrived it was surreal to walk out on the streets and there be puddles of water. I can imagine how difficult and unpleasant it is in town in the wet season as there are no drainage, sewage or sewerage systems in place.

 

I had organised to visit my friend's mum for dinner that day and had to take a ruksha (tuk tuk) through the massive mud puddles to get to her house on the other side of town. I was paranoid that the tiny little vehicle would not make it, or worse, tip over sideways in the water. I was told that I should take some friends or colleagues with me for dinner and within the South Sudanese culture a guest is always supposed to eat first. It felt unusual to me that I was in the house with my friends eating and drinking, while my host was outside preparing the meal. Only after we finished eating did she come and sit with us.

 

The rain brought a cooler change to the temperature so the last two days have been pleasant and sleeping has not been a problem. I am sure that in a few weeks and with some more rain the landscape here will look very different to the way it is now. I would like to experience South Sudan in the wet season, only minus the mosquitoes.

This experience over the last few months has reminded me that people are adaptable and strong, no matter where they live in the world and what cards they have been dealt in life. I am looking forward to heading back to my life in Australia but I will think fondly on my times and experiences in Acumcum, Wau and South Sudan.

Visit to Nyinakok

My latest assignment has been to write a concept note for the Local County Government to help them build their headquarters. Up until December 2012 the three Counties of Western Bahr El Ghazal State have been operating out of Wau, however the Government's policy for many years has been that each County should be based within its own County's geographical location.

 

The Government made a very firm announcement in October of last year that all County headquarters should cease operating from Wau and this is what led to the violence and killings of 30 people. Unfortunately for the local County Government, there is no budget from the Government to help them build their headquarters. They have managed to receive some donations from local NGOs, but this is limited to bricks etc. So my job is to prepare a brief report to send to international donors requesting assistance for infrastructure and funding.

 

Yesterday we went for a drive from Acumcum along a back bush road to Nyinakok, the new site of Jur River County headquarters. It felt like we were on a safari, driving through isolated wood lands and tall grasses. The men from the County office and local chiefs were very helpful and provided me with all of the information I needed.

 

We then went for a walk to the local river. As it is the dry season the water level is very low. There were still plenty of monkeys around. On the way back they took me past a hyena's den. Thankfully they stayed sleeping!

 

 

Chief and Executive Chief of Nyinakok

 

Colleagues John and William near the river




At the site of the new headquarters